Blog statistics suggested that you preferred reading about food and wine rather than copyright reform. Because I had been tweeting a lot recently about my favourite Soho restaurant I thought I’d explain why.
I would never describe Cameron Emirali as bringing a “deft touch” to his cooking at 10 Greek Street which is the restaurant that he co-owns with Luke Wilson. The phrase is just too pedestrian and would not even begin to explain and capture the simplicity of what Emirali does every day.
The menu which changes daily is on message for the oh-so-now restaurant mantra of seasonal and local but the dishes are presented as if 10 Greek Street invented the concept. I was so taken the first time when I accidentally dined there during the soft-opening that I had to return to be sure that I hadn’t taken leave of my senses. I hadn’t.
I had heard tell of inconsistencies with the service and whilst I don’t doubt some blips, the reverse had always been true for me. From the just-the-right-side-of-over-friendly waitress on visit one to the casual conversation with a waiter on the second visit, as if we had known each other for years but kept to non-intrusive and polite – we discussed white wines and I was steered towards an Albarino that supported me (mentally) and the food (perfect match). Wilson has assembled what surely is London’s best wine list and then resisted the urge to mark up the arse out of them.
On the soft launch visit hare was in season and when served with polenta which melted a rich earthy meaty flesh into a mouthful of happiness. The mango posset for pudding was too runny for a posset but rich in flavour.
But I will share this secret with you. The real joy of 10 Greek Street is dining at the pass at the back of the room underneath a pitch-sized sky light – you can watch Cameron calmly steer his team and cook your lunch. I sat there and ate mussels and clams in a chorizo broth, garlic prawns and crunchy battered baby squid – oh the crunch, the salt, the wine.
This could conjure images of heavy stomach-filling food – but it just isn’t. That’s because Emirali knows how to cook in a way that lifts the soul. The bread keeps on coming (fennel and onion the day I visited) and Emirali carries a conversation about whatever you please as he works.
It was when talking to him, and his New Zealand born Sydney-bred accent obvious, that the Gestalt moment happened. He has taken all his Antipodean influences and dropped them on Greek Street – expertly cooked food without pretention without fuss but with feeling.
This is not modern British nor modern European. It’s modern Antipodean in ground zero of London’s food scene – and we’re the winners because of that.
10 Greek Street is at (you guessed it) 10 Greek Street, Soho.
3 courses for two with wine approximately £80
3 bar plates, 2 glasses of wine and endless bread for one approximately £25
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